Transit mk8 2.0 ad blue trouble HELP!

[JohnMx66]

Brought a transit mk8 2.0 ad blue that needed work it started so on that biases we brought it

2017 RWD model. We sorted some issues that it had

1st the sensor on the fuel rail had come apart so changed that (it’s boneded together or something)

2nd the dpf was blocked so was choking itself up would run unless the ad blue squirter was out. So that’s off been cleaned and put back on it’s all clear and will tick over

3rd it had the broken white wire at the turbo plug, brought the wiring kit all soldered in that’s all good now.

4th fuel filter was all twisted. So changed that.

The van will tick over but will not rev up when the pedal is pressed the accelerator pedal percentage matches when pressed ie half throttle is 50 % etc and full throttle is reading 100%. When it ticks over there is black smoke

Other things it’s had a new battery agm 115
New dpf pressure sensor
New maf
New air filter
Egr clean via the snap on
Modules reset
Adaptions rest
Using for scan

I have two codes p008 sometimes low fuel pressure but doesn’t have this code when running and one for the dash special memory failure. U3000 code

Also I noticed after running for a a while the oil pressure light comes on the dash as it does that the snap on says the light inactive and not lit up and oil pressure is good

Alternator is not working ticking over we are getting 12v not 14v

Also the throttle body is reading at a 100 percent when running I’ve tested a couple good working transits they seem to be at 93 percent constant

I know it’s a lot of info to take in but do I possibly have a bad ecu? Or wiring issue, or bad dash the van has a tow bar could that module be paying up. Do I need a new alternator or throttle body?


Looking to keep the van that’s why I’m preserving with it. Has done 94,000 miles


Any insight or suggestions would be greatly welcomed

Thanks John.

[metalworker0]

First this should not be ruled out, sorry this may be bad news this engine is known for having a wetbelt.
it's at the,mileage when the wet belt starts to play up or fail, .. with that many problems getting it to run, would suspect its lost teeth.
intermittent oil pressure may be debris blocking the oil pick up.

Think it has a smart alternator ..i don't know if it should be saying 12 volt ...i don't know anything about smart alternators..but normal systems would be showing at least 12.5 volt with engine stopped.

From reading here ...one of the first things to play up when the wetbelt is on its way out is the brakes ...as the vacuum unit becomes inoperative because of the debris. ..are the brakes OK?

You can also peer down the oil filler tube and see the condition of the belt ..but only the smooth side of it , Examine the oil and oil filter .

after you've checked and ruled out the above ..only then can you look at other things

you mean P0008 - from google - is the result of a test run by the engine control module to check for misalignment between the camshafts in engine bank one and the crankshaft. The misalignment for this code would be at an idler sprocket in the bank or at the crankshaft.

which also may point to belt failing

P008A is fuel pressure !

all the best.mark

[JohnMx66]

Hi mark.

Thanks for your reply

I have heard about the transit dreaded wet belt issue, I will check the oil, oil filter and have a look from the oil filer cap


The code is P0008A sorry and not P0008 so is point to low side fuel pressure

The van will start and run every time it just won’t rev. Also every now and then it will tick over and the revs will read 0rpm and then jump to 800rpm

The van is at 11.8v battery volts with the engine off and with the engine running the same, does the 2.2 have a smart alternator I checked a friends one and that is reading 14.5v when running

[Altransit]

11.8v is classed as a dead battery, so the charging issue needs to be sorted before you kill the new battery.
The low power may also be causing the PCM to not allow the engine to run properly

[metalworker0]

A battery running at low volts like that will make all the electronics play up, nothing will work properly ..there will be spurious random faults that are not really there. ECU's will not manage the engine properly ..injectors will not be timed properly ...basically the lot will be having a sick day.

So best sort the battery and charging problems out first.

You said it had a new battery so :

Before you jump into it and buy a new alternator, i would :

Check all earth points from the battery ..follow them, take the earths off, wire brush the bolts at earth points and terminals on the battery.
take the terminals off the alternator clean them , squirt contact cleaner into the multiplugs.

how do you tell if it has a smart alternator ..i don't know .

hopefully others will come along and advice on that .


all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

first charge the battery for a few hours at the battery terminals
..then check that it is showing 12.5 or over at the battery terminals once charged

all the best.mark

[JohnMx66]

hanks for your reply both of you


I have charged the battery up to over 12v and have put that back on, so now I’ll start looking at wires, earths and power comes in to the alternator

I did put another new battery on it while this one was charging just to check my new one isn’t faulty as you never know, but no different

The alternator fuse is on the same fuse as the starter right? So if that has blown surely the stater wouldn’t work?

Thanks again

John

[Altransit]

Just out of interest, being a RWD, does it not have two batteries?

[JohnMx66]

Hi Al

No this one just has the one. We have a 2.2 2015 that has a two. But this 2017 2.0 only has one and cables for one. But you might tell me otherwise

I have found an issue. The positive jump point if I measure the volts at the stud 12.5 same as the battery but I if I measure the out going cable connected the stud, the volts are fluctuating like mad, same with all 3 of the cables connected to the fuse box. Studs measuring the same as the battery, but the cables are not.

Thanks.

[Altransit]

Maybe one of the Ford techs could enlighten us, but there was a time when ALL RWD vans had two batteries, and FWD had one, with an option for two (mine has two)
With yours being RWD, and having the cables in place, could it be that someone has removed one? That would create all sorts of interesting electrical gremlins.

Do you have the big relay in the battery fuse box?

[JohnMx66]

Hi al.

Only has one battery and cables for one battery if I measure the jump point for volts under the bonnett the volts are all over the place would that point to a bad alternator or earth?


Thanks.

[metalworker0]

Means, if you cant restore the full voltage to jump point by disassembling and de-rusting and cleaning, you are going to be undoing the jump points cabling all the way beck to the battery and cleaning de-rusting the all earth points terminals etc.

all the best.mark

[JohnMx66]

Update.

Changed the alternator, had it tested no good. Now getting correct volts. Managed to get the van to rev up. By unplugging injector 1. Also the lights and windows, heater and window wipers won’t work until you unplug the injector 1 aswell. Crazy I know

[metalworker0]

you mean you unpluged glow plug 1

if you unplugged an actual injector ...think the engine management would have a fit and it would refuse ti start

if one of those glowplugs was down to earth it may take a lot of power. and make things act up ..

but its supposed to have fused link or fuse somewhere. that should have blown if that was happening

all the best.mark

[JohnMx66]

Hi mark.

No I start the van on the 4 injectors then unplug number one van revs up on its own, plug it back on and I can rev the van up using the pedal, clear the code and I can drive the van.