I didn't exactly do all this today, but here goes the slight mods I've done since I bought the car last year:
I drilled into the railing on the roof to mount 2 x Rigid D-series reversing lamps. I often load/unload equipment into the car and wanted lights that could stay on even when the car is not in reverse.
I wrapped the cable in a shrink hose and pulled it down behind the right back light, and through with the other cables without cutting any rubber or drilling any holes in the car itself.
I soldered onto the power outlet in the back as these LEDs don't draw too much power by themselves - aswell as this outlet is powered when the ignition is off and the car is locked.
Cables to the switch went inside the roof beams and to the switch above the driver seat.
I also just tapped into the original interior light as I want
something to turn on when I open a door, and then push a button when I need more light inside.
Recently I installed a Pioneer TS-WH500A flat sub using the guide I found on here. Soldered onto the existing speaker outputs and pulled the signal + power in separade tubes from the center console.
I piggybacked (am I using the term correctly?) continous power from a 20A fuse, and some control power from another 7,5A that turns on when I turn the key to power the sub on and off. I lost the
single page in the manual that list wich fuse is what since I've been messing so much around in there, and the fact that this works is a result of a lot of trial and error.
For now this sub is "mounted" to the floor with some heavy duty 3M 2-way velcro that I often use for camera equipment. Maby I'll put a strap in there aswell, but the edge in front of the sub makes me believe it won't cut my feet off if I crash unless I go airborne upon impact, and in that case I've got at least 99 more problems.
All light bulbs are now 6000K LED lights, interior x 3 in the cabin, reversing lights, directional lights and headlights - the latter after some modest adjustments using a hacksaw - on the cooling ribs of the LED bulbs. No Ford Transit Connects were harmed in the process. A bit difficult to fit the left fog light (H11) but after verbal abuse those lights are also 6000K.
I dropped the idea of mounting a front guard to accomodate a LED bar, as the brackets I found didn't put the bar too far ahead. (This picture is before the other halogen bulbs were changed)
This is a Lazer Linear 18 Elite.
I tapped onto the high beam cables for control current when I use the original high beams to activate the LED bar.
Sorry about the flies. Just got back from a trip across the country.