Difficulty selecting reverse

[metalworker0]

i delved into this a couple of years ago

here's the info i found:

Needs to have ..or preferred to have ford specification WSD-M2C200-C written on it somewhere. and 75w-90

somewhere down the line they changed to this specification - and the oil colour changed from red to golden . when they did this- i read - the gear change became slicker and easier.

mines got the golden stuff in it ..but for some reason Comma's " MVMTF Plus 75W" has just 75 and not 75w -90 written on it, i don't know why, its fully synthetic and the one comma specify.

I've changed mine to this and have not done any miles on it at all - so cant tell you any more than for gearbox called an MTX75 and there are a few people on the net recommending this oil brand and product code. (ford performance forums where they thrash the life out of the motors )
note you need to buy it in 2x1 ltr bottles as they come with the pull out spout that is needed to get it in .

latest .....no trouble since then ..but ive only put 2000 miles on it

just done a search ..now the stuff called "MVMTF Plus" now has 75w-80 written on it.

BTW - there is a sealed bearing running in the gearbox,,, even though its immersed in gearbox oil ...and its one of the things that buggers up first ..according to Alan Howatt of youtube also mech for "steve's taxis" they get beyond 250,000 miles out of these boxes.

perhaps you should ask him what oil he recommends ...he's usually "live" on youtube at 8pm on Wednesdays

all the best....mark'

[Boghopper]

I actually emailed Comma, today, concerning their MVMTFP Plus 75W and this iswhat the reply was:


Thank you for your enquiry

Hope you are well

Looking at the latest data we have for Ford Transit below, we can confirm that our MVMTF PLUS 75W is the correct product from our range for the MTX75 gear box.

Transaxle, manual MTX75
Manual
Gears forward: 5
Gears reverse: 1
Capacity:1.9 liter
Use: Normal

OEM recommendation
temperate climate Ford M2C200-D2 SAE 75W


Product recommendation
temperate climate COMMA MVMTF PLUS 75W

Please contact us if you have any further questions

Best regards

Michael.

As you can see there is no mention of this "WSD-M2C200-C" criteria, so I do not know what the hell all that is about. All they mention is "Ford M2C200-D2".

It was Comma oil that took my box out this time, I will take a photo as a warning to others and put it up. In the meantime I am cautious as to what to put in there. The only oil I can see with "WSD-M2C200-C" is the Castrol stuff.

latest .....no trouble since then ..but ive only put 2000 miles on it

It won't be that quick. The Comma stuff that destroyed mine took five years and I was totally unaware, until I could not select revers anymore. Up until that time the box was behaving alright, I was unaware that it was literally eroding the synchro rings and creating a metallic soup inside.

But the is Comma MVMTF PLUS 75W seems to be what everyone is recommending.

[metalworker0]

sync rings are bronze i think

and some gear oils do actually erode brass and bronze (yellow metals)./.but its usually the ones with EP written on them that contain high sulphur

if it has corroded them ..you need to do an autopsy ..the yellow metals will be black if its been attacking them

if you prove this is so .....then my oil will be changed as soon as possible.

but i think you only have to damage these sync rings marginally ...and it starts the wear process off .

plus ...you never know what the first owner put in it or did to it .

you only have to have one bad owner that put the wrong oil in it once .

comma tech pdf

file:///C:/Users/Mark/Downloads/17971.pdf

says elsewhere on the net that API GL-4 is safe for yellow metals and API GL-5 is the bad one which has the EP (extreme pressure) additives in it ..

if it has a towing bracket on your van from previous to you ..then you don't know what someones been up to with it ..imagine heavy boat and steep slipway!



all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

The Comma oil I put in it about five years ago, after changing an oil seal, was 'not' the MVMTFP stuff it was a different oil. I will take a photo of the tub and post it soon. The last time I drained the oil on this van to do the N/S oil seal, the oil was crystal clear and golden, it reminded me of that vile stuff they call sunflower oil.

I think the Comma oil you have in your van and the tub of it I have here (MVMTFP) is the correct stuff and there is nowt to worry about. Even after I contacted Comma, they have confirmed that it's the correct stuff.

Opie oils are saying the Comma MVMTFP stuff is both: Ford WSD-M2C 200-C, WSD-M2C 200-B


https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-147655-comma-mv-mtf-plus-75w-90-fully-synthetic-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx

[Boghopper]

This is the oil that I am sure disintegrated my gearbox over a five year period, of very easy driving.

[metalworker0]

GL5 - that's the one with the EP additives that eat yellow metals
Yes, you put the wrong oil in

below is the one i have in , it was bought from halfords ..the guy looked it up in a book ..and it was the one recommended
its says "GL4" on it ...so im safe
not sure why its just strait 75 and not a multigrade that was the only one there, that was in his book at the time.

and if i put in my reg number into the halfords site it still recommends that very oil

OH forgot ..i got my 10 percent off the price, because i am a member of the AA

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

GL5 - that's the one with the EP additives that eat yellow metals
Yes, you put the wrong oil in

below is the one i have in , it was bought from halfords ..the guy looked it up in a book ..and it was the one recommended
its says "GL4" on it ...so im safe

Well, that's all that matters!



It would have been nice for them to have mentioned it on the tub, don't you think? Instead of:

"Suitable for modern five and six speed gearboxes and differentials"

below is the one i have

That's the stuff I have a tub of now.

[metalworker0]

Yes, talking oils and lubes and fluids, a lot of stuff going on here ..with hard and impossible to bleed clutches and brakes ...me wondering if fluids mixed ...as there are so many to choose from dot 3, dot 4, dot 5 and dot 5.1..its dot 5 that has the issues because its so different than the others , its silicone based and does not mix .....you are supposed to do a full rebuild and flush if using dot 5 .

mine has dot 5.1 in after full flush and new rear cylinders.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

Remembering my visit to Halfords 2.5 years ago ....armed with the spec and the grade..written on piece of paper .
I visited the oil section ...looked at that very one ..that ruined your box ..

Think to myself , yes that's the one 75w 90

There was a booklet chained to the oil section that you could read .....in it were the warnings ...and applications ...and info about yellow metals ...and it was telling that it was the wrong one in the charts.

My thoughts were ...why was just 75 written on the correct one ........and 75w 90 on the incorrect one .

Confused, i consulted the chap who was working there ....he just went through the same thoughts as me ....together we decided on the correct one .

Dead easy to pick up the wrong one if you don't consult that booklet ..me thinks

Wonder how many people have destroyed boxes ..because of the same mistake that can be easily done !

it was the same when i chose the brake fluid ......in the booklet were the warnings ....little paragraph about compatibility . charts showing the one you should choose.
Nothing on the containers of the fluids


all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

It's even worse for me as I am now living up near John O' Groats, from the South West originally. Anyway, all I can do is read what little there is on the websites, if I wanted to actually go into a Halfords and physically look at the oils I would be looking at a 200 mile round trip. It would have just been nice if Comma had mentioned the "modern five speed boxes" that the oil didn't work on, it's surely not that much of an inconvenience.

Changed the Clutch feed pipe today, nothing wrong with mine. but alas, Ford have decided to make it obsolete and redundant. Great fun removing parts that are working perfectly. The LuK one that fits the new slave is part number: 418 0395 10. Had to get my missus to actually put the clip in and out and remove/ replace the clutch feed pipe as I cannot physically get my hands and forearms over the back of the engine. Absolutely diabolical situation trying to manipulate your body and limbs into all these contortions, my arms are shredded and bruised from trying. You need one of those bendy, gymnast birds to lend a hand. I do not enjoy any of this and I am finding it increasingly tiresome and depressing.

I am just sticking to DOT 4 as I have a tub of it.

Had to cut the gearbox mount off the other day as the bolt shaft had welded itself to the inner of the mount. It then tore itself from the rubber cushion making the mount impossible to remove; had to cut the bolt off as well.

with hard and impossible to bleed clutches and brakes

Last winter I spent two days trying to bleed my brakes. I never touched anything other than replacing the brake pipes that go over the subframe and connect under the bulkhead. I just could not get them to bleed, gave up in the end and just started driving it. Brakes came back after about an hour, and got progressively better until they just went back to normal on their own. Have not lost a drop of fluid during the last seven months either: Inexplicable, phenomenon, paranormal, etc!

[metalworker0]

i could only imagine the air was trapped in the antilock unit .....when you operated the brakes in use perhaps it migrated upwards and out .

Think you are supposed to use OBD software to operate the antilock whilst bleeding ..although i never had to do that, i had clamps on the flex hoses, so i i never lost any fluid and introduced air that far up.

My clutch still hasn't been bled no change of fluid in that line ..although id like to do it ..the difficulties i read here ..have convinced me to leave well alone or wait until the clutch needs changing.

I'll be changing the power steering fluid soon though ........will be watching you tube videos on that ......perhaps i might convince MR Howatt to do power steering fluid change video ..as he seams to do great and informative videos on everything.


all the best...mark

[Boghopper]

Clutch won't bleed now no leaks, just air. Have tried all sorts but nothing! There are some horror stories about concerning bleeding these clutches. Is there anything on these ill-conceived abonimations that works efficiently? It just should not be like this. I noticed the clutch master cylinder was totally plastic whilst changing the clutch feed pipe it looked, and felt like a cheap, Chinese child's toy, unbelievable!

[metalworker0]

Be thank full you haven't got a BMW or many other modern cars and vans ..After 2005 ish everything was plastic with a time limit, built to deteriorate and become brittle within 7- 8 years - manifolds , water pipes, water pumps, bracketry, sensor plugs , clips and costs £100's even £1000's to fix

noticed that some of the connect slave cylinders are aluminium and some are plastic ...wonder if you search round a bit you could find an alloy master cylinder.

all the best.mark

[Boghopper]

I have now tried again, for the third time today, given up now as it is just meaningless and pointless continuing. You could feed a whole tub of fluid through this mess and you would still not get anywhere. I have some pipe on the way, which I have had to order as you cannot purchase anything up here except platform shoes, sheep and three-legged stools I have also ordered a pressure bleeder. So, more money and time to overcome some more totally needless and unnecessary situation. I saw a method to prevail against these engineered situations, which, call me cynical, but I truly believe they are. You could not design such a degenerate, diaboliocal system by accident, this has to be by design. I believe this is to alienate, estrange and cause problems to any potential owner's having a go themselves. I see this callous attitude everywhere.

Anyway, here is how one person has managed to clear the air out on his:

I Had the same problems after I changed the clutch on mine. If you follow the procedure described below, you might have a good chance of bleeding the system.

1)Make sure your fluid reservoir is totally topped up. This is due to the clutch system has a higher situated outlet inside the reservoir to avoid brake failure due to a leaking clutch cylinder.

2) Mount a 6ft clear hose on the clutch cylinder bleed nipple, and hold the other end of the hose as high a it reaches

3) Loosen the bleed nipple

4) Now slowly pump the clutch and the trapped air is visable in the hose. Pump till the fluid reach the high end of the hose

5) Release the clutch pedal and move your foot from the pedal. Slowly the fluid inside the hose starts to run backwards in the system and into the reservoir again.

6) Tighten the bleed nipple and hopefully the clutch pedal acts normal again.

I used to do a bit of work on old MZ, Jawa, CZ and other communist occupied countries bikes, years back and they were better contructed and more logical than this shite and nowhere near as dysfunctional.

Be thank full you haven't got a BMW or many other modern cars and vans .

Well, without blowing my own trumpet, that's why I haven't got a newer vehicle because, I for one and not wanting to go any deeper into this quagmire. I do realise it could be a great deal worse. Someone was saying on some of these cars you cannot even use an engine beam as the inner wing is plastic, or something, and cannot tolerate the weight of the engine.

[NC53]

Had the reverse gear problem on a 2009 Connect and after much guess work changing this and that, eventually pulled the box out and opened it up to find stripped teeth on more than one syncho ring. When you’ve got the box out I’d advise removing the casing to check the internal condition. If you find metal on the magnet, you're in trouble but I note you have a spare box although again I’d be inspecting the internal condition of that before fitting it so you are sure you’re fitting a good one.

As for bleeding the clutch, I’ve used an easi bleed kit which works off tyre pressure and it’s always done the job.