engine cranks but won't catch -any help appreciated!

[metalworker0]

well done ..it may start easier as the engine beds in ..you've put a lot of diesel into it trying to start it, that did not ignite ..this would have gone down the rings and maybe
temporary unsealed them....and i don't know what you had disconnected when you are having trouble starting ..pipes manifolds sensors ..all contribute to it starting well.

guess ..now you are calling it "she" you are keeping it

all the best.mark

[sparkybandit]

Thank you mate ,it's only taken me 18 months!
yeah hopefully after some running in she will get back to normal, yes they'll be loads of diesel in there you're right, she started today without easy-start, a bit hesitant maybe had to crank her twice but she idles okay-ish ,a bit rough to start with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aJeyfU054Q

Did a cold crank compression test today; Cyl1: 320psi /Cyl2:300psi / Cyl3:300psi / Cyl4:280psi (Haynes book of lies says all is okay provided no more than 10% difference in cylinder ranges?)

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/45Pn-GoIuNY
on re-assembly i noticed i had disturbed a hose on the turbo...what's the effects of this not being connected?

[metalworker0]

Sorry not delved into turbos ..think is called an actuator ..what it does i don't know .

you see i only gain my knowledge from what i need to know .....so far not owned any turbo vehicles until this connect ..so far no trouble with turbo ..therefor never required the knowledge so cant tell you anything

but any air leak is not good


all the best.mark

[sparkybandit]

no problem Mark,yeah i just did some googling and it obviously communicates with the actuator so it can operate the 'wastegate' system,which is like a trap door that helps to release pressure and drop the turbo speed down.
this chap has had the same issue;
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=164229
I'll fashion a way to re-attach with a good seal by tapping a thread and screwing in a bleed nipple or something similar. I'll use some grease and go slow to avoid any swarf getting in there.

[Boghopper]

Well done for getting her running! Isn't it a bloody nightmare? It seems the new valves were of different length and stole your valve clearances.

I see in another post, way back you were talking about the crank pin that is used to determine the crank timing and what's the point of locking it off at the flywheel as well. Well, it is my understanding that the crank pin is only a locating pin , not a locking pin and if you do not lock the motor off at the flywheel with a dedicated locking method you can snap the locating pin behind the alternator and obviously the end will fall into you motor. That's how I have always understood it.

See you snapped your wastegate actuator, pipe post? Well, get one of these of the right pipe internal diameter and tap a thread into the manifold:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404055008531 ... s=ispr%3D1

Not many would have had the perseverance that you have shown and I take my hat off to you, as I sometimes feel like taking a hammer to my vans.

[sparkybandit]

Thanks for the complement
I am a bit embarrassed that it's taken me 18 months or so - never one to rush a job!
A while back a mate said 'forget it Mark,it's too complicated and you're seeking help online for something that is too complex to explain, i said sometimes all you need is a small tit-bit of info. I had given up and had listed my van on e-bay and a watcher had messaged me to ask whether i had tried checking the valve clearances? I had skipped that part as i thought they wouldn't be enough of a difference that would prevent it from starting lol.
I did thank him and ask to send him a drink but he said nah don't worry it's a common mistake so i had a stoke of luck there- some nice people about.
I must also big up Mark 'metalworker' on here who has constantly replied to my posts and offered his advice, as he does to others. Any advice is better than silence.

Good shout,I shall order one of those Hose Barb Tail Connectors,if i can't tap it while it's in situ,i'll have to consult haynes and work out how to remove the turbo unit on it's own,the last thing i want to do is have to get under her and remove the exhaust manifold again but if i have to then i have to. you see I never removed the turbo from the exhaust manifold,I didn't want to disturb it too much so I only removed the brackets at which it connects to the egr cooler and dropped the exhaust manifold with turbo attached (prob how the damage occured- vacuum cable got snagged while lowering it) I presume it will come off,just the unit itself -be good it it does.

New question,way back when i assembled the engine I cleaned up the injector holes with a small soft drill brush and i got the seats clean and shiny and ready for their new copper washers but because I've had the injectors out so many bloody times due to fault finding they are now shot and are leaking. Obviously a once only torque down job.
I've got eight coming in the post in-case i screw up and need spares but what i am confused about is that Haynes suggest torquing down the injector clamp bolt down to 5nm to start, and then an angle (i forget what angle) my problem is my torque wrench starts at 10nm (and then i wouldn't trust it as it's the beginning of the calibration on the tool and some say not all that accurate) so what torque setting would you suggest or is it a case of tight as i feel fit,if it leaks nip it up a bit more till you don't see the diesel spitting around the injector? They're a 10mm dome cap bolt with perhaps a 8mm thick shaft so I won't go crazy at it,last thing i want is to have to drill /re-tap but i don't want leaks. i think it's the leaking which is causing a difficult first start and also lumpy vibration,certainly plenty of fumes.

injector clamp bolt.jpg

[metalworker0]

5nm = 3.7 lbs per foot

which is a spring fishing/ parcel scale attached 1 foot up a lever bar on the end of the socket driver bar .

all the best.mark

[sparkybandit]

Alright Mark, I've got a proper torque bar but it don't start as low as 5nm, it starts at 10 ...Haynes say 5nm then tighten a further 90 degrees,i'd imagine 5nm is close to hand tight,it's the same as tightening a stem to a pair of handlebars on a bicycle , so shall i go with that then tighten 90 degree?

[metalworker0]

it's hardly anything , yeah, just grab the socket extension bar and tighten snug with hands.

all the best.mark