2011 2.4 Runs ( in a fashion ! )

[Pseudanym]

Good morning. I have a conundrum with my Transit.
The Transit in question is my 2011 2.4 115/350L. Bought as a non ( semi ) runner.
The engine turns freely and fires but won’t run unless the accelerator is on the floor.
If the accelerator is on the floor it will run, a little roughly, not too bad, but only at idle speed and won’t rev at all. As soon as I release the accelerator it dies.
If I start it with no accelerator it starts then immediately dies. Time after time. The previous owner replaced the ignition switch and fuel filter.
Any help with what to check would be very much appreciated.
Thank you very much for your time and trouble.
Have a great weekend. All the best,
Duncan.

[knobby1]

Good morning. I have a conundrum with my Transit.
The Transit in question is my 2011 2.4 115/350L. Bought as a non ( semi ) runner.
The engine turns freely and fires but won’t run unless the accelerator is on the floor.
If the accelerator is on the floor it will run, a little roughly, not too bad, but only at idle speed and won’t rev at all. As soon as I release the accelerator it dies.
If I start it with no accelerator it starts then immediately dies. Time after time. The previous owner replaced the ignition switch and fuel filter.
Any help with what to check would be very much appreciated.
Thank you very much for your time and trouble.
Have a great weekend. All the best,
Duncan.

As a start, what faul codes are you getting..?? What fuel rail pressure are you getting during cranking..?? Do you hace cam/crank sync during cranking..??

Lord Knobrot

[Pseudanym]

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me.
An update as of today. Previous owner told me the van will start and run for 10 minutes then die. It wouldnt do that, or run properly, when I bought it.
A garage owner friend suggested unplugging the sensor at the rear of the fuel rail, as he said this would let it run in a default mode, so I did that.
After that it started and ran. Press the throttle and it revved ok. Would hold 2500/3000 rpm no problem. idled ok, just a bit of hunting.
Left it running whilst I had a bacon sarnie.
Came back 20 mins later, not running. Tried to start it and it made no attempt to fire, and continues to be the same all afternoon, even after I replaced the connection on the 'sensor', which looks all the world to me not like a sensor at all because it has no electrical connection to it, just a connector that can be unplugged.
Thats where I am now. It cant be a lot as it starts, runs, idles and revs. I feel it must be sensor related somewhere, but dont know in which direction to proceed.
Thanks for helping my Lord.
Duncan.

[knobby1]

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me.
An update as of today. Previous owner told me the van will start and run for 10 minutes then die. It wouldnt do that, or run properly, when I bought it.
A garage owner friend suggested unplugging the sensor at the rear of the fuel rail, as he said this would let it run in a default mode, so I did that.
After that it started and ran. Press the throttle and it revved ok. Would hold 2500/3000 rpm no problem. idled ok, just a bit of hunting.
Left it running whilst I had a bacon sarnie.
Came back 20 mins later, not running. Tried to start it and it made no attempt to fire, and continues to be the same all afternoon, even after I replaced the connection on the 'sensor', which looks all the world to me not like a sensor at all because it has no electrical connection to it, just a connector that can be unplugged.
Thats where I am now. It cant be a lot as it starts, runs, idles and revs. I feel it must be sensor related somewhere, but dont know in which direction to proceed.
Thanks for helping my Lord.
Duncan.

There's two connectors on the fuel rail, the one at the front is the fuel rail pressure sensor, if you unplug that, the engine will never start as the PCM will never know what the rail pressure is....the rear one is just a PRV, Pressure Relief Valve, unplugging that just lets air into the system, I suspect this is why it ran for a while and then stopped... it's a drain/return line. You need to get it plugged in to some decent diagnostics, guessing and throwing parts at it is pointless.

Is the fuel filter full after sitting for a few hour or overnight..??

Lord Knobrot

[Pseudanym]

Hello again. I have been unable to unscrew the fuel filter by hand atm so will have to obtain a device to assist me in doing so. The van now refuses to start normally and just turns over. I cannot give you the fuel rail pressure during cranking atm either. Sorry, will do so when I can. On the advice of a garage owning friend I squirted some easy start in the air intake and the van fired up. I only did this twice and just enough for it to fire up then die. He suggested this as a way of proving it’s a fuel supply issue, which it seems to confirm. Again, on his advice, I have removed the injectors so that that they can be tested to make sure one or more is not leaking when stood. I am taking them for testing today. Will keep you informed. Thank you once again. Duncan.

[Pseudanym]

Further update.
All injectors pressure tested and all ok apart from number 3 which leaks. Replacement advised by tester.
Fuel filter removed and barely half full of diesel after standing 3 days.
I am unsure if the two are related.
I am now awaiting arrival of reconditioned injector unit.

[knobby1]

Further update.
All injectors pressure tested and all ok apart from number 3 which leaks. Replacement advised by tester.
Fuel filter removed and barely half full of diesel after standing 3 days.
I am unsure if the two are related.
I am now awaiting arrival of reconditioned injector unit.

Make sure the injectors go back into the cylinders they came from, or run the correction factors setup with the numbers in the righ spot. With the new injector, make sure it comes with a new "correction factor" code and is entered into the PCM using Forscan or IDS.

Then reset all the PRV timers/counters and do the pump, pilot and injector learns.

If the fuel filter is "emptying" itself, you must have air ingress, since you have the injectors out I assume you'll be fitting new little green O-rings on the leakback lines..?? Check all the low pressure fuel lines and their O-rings for deterioration/cracks etc. The filter housings are known to crack and let air in too, so worth checking considering.

Lord Knobrot

[andz327]

As his lordship mentioned And use genuine green O-rings and filter to avoid problems

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[andz327]

If you have problems getting fuel filter off buy an oil filter removal belt that fits on 1/2 inch ratchet and use an extention if needed

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[Pseudanym]

New Ford green o rings fitted. Recon injector fitted, no coding needed apparently.
All other parts refitted, turns over well but no hint if firing. A quick sniff of easystart and it will fire. Will check if filter is half full again then try running it from a jerrycan, bypassing filter housing. Can I just remove the front left hose from the filter housing and dangle it in the jerrycan of diesel ? Thank you.

[knobby1]

New Ford green o rings fitted. Recon injector fitted, no coding needed apparently.
All other parts refitted, turns over well but no hint if firing. A quick sniff of easystart and it will fire. Will check if filter is half full again then try running it from a jerrycan, bypassing filter housing. Can I just remove the front left hose from the filter housing and dangle it in the jerrycan of diesel ? Thank you.

Injector does indeed need coding, whoever advised you that it didn't has no idea....it has a 16 digit "correction factor" printed on the plastic electrical connector...If it's a reconditioned injector, it should come with a new number on a card or the paperwork that came with it, (the engine should still start though prior to doing the learns).

You need to find out what the cranking fuel rail pressure is. Are "both" your batteries in good condition..??

Lord Knobrot