Compatible BCM for Mk7 12 seater

[Ewan from Oz]

Using Forscan with extended license I managed to initialise the replacement BCM (not with the AsBuilt file) and program two keys. I discovered that the initilising failed at first until I programmed the keys. Once the keys were programmed I was then able to successfully initialise the BCM so it seems that it has to be done in that order.

Nowhere during the process did Forscan ask me for the Ford AsBuilt file nor did I see any option to use the AsBuilt file. How is the AsBuilt file used to initialise the BCM?

[Ewan from Oz]

Also, I don't see any option on Forscan to program the fob and I can't find any way to program it like you can with a Mk6 by cycling the ignition 8 times. How is it done on a Mk7?

[loot]

I'm not too familiar with the forscan method but basically.

Module initialization is a pats security thing which pairs the module with the other modules and you use incodes to do it upto 2012.75 ish.

Pats is also used to program keys.

Calibration is the module programming.

Asbuilt is the settings in config and modules etc that your van was built with but will still run if incorrect as the pcm is what runs it.

You need pats and initialization to get it working but then asbuilt to install the correct settings info like locking, vin, axle and wheel settings etc.

That's why, now you need the how.

[Ewan from Oz]

Thanks Loot. So it seems where I'm at is that I've done the key programming and module initializing but have yet to program the AsBuilt settings.

Someone who is familiar with Forscan can hopefully tell me how to import the AsBuilt file to configure the BCM?

The van starts and runs okay and shows no fault codes. The only thing not functioning is the keyless remote (fob) as I haven't been able to figure out how to program that. I don't see any option in Forscan to program it and the procedure for the Mk6 (cycling the ignition 8 times within 10 seconds) doesn't do anything.

[Airthies]

If you've done the key programming with in and out codes and the van starts and runs then your remote should work.
I'd be checking fuses and if the receiver unit (up in the headlining near the front light) is showing an LED light when the fobs pressed.

Sent from my anu5 using crapatalk

[Ewan from Oz]

I tried the remote again and it does work. I'm not sure why it wouldn't work the first time I tried it. The first time I tried it was when I was sitting in the drivers seat but the next time when it did work I was standing outside beside the drivers door. I had just cycled the door locks using the key in the drivers door lock and then tried the fob and it worked. Maybe cycling the locks with the key made the difference?

The only DTC present now is for low brake fluid which is not low as I've checked and it's at the max level. This DTC only appeared with the replacement BCM. The old faulty BCM didn't show this code. The old faulty BCM showed a DTC for windscreen washer switch fault but that did not reappear once the replacement BCM was fitted. So it seems I've exchanged one annoying DTC for another. The low brake fluid DTC is more of a problem as it causes the brake fault light to illuminate on the dash. Does anyone know how to test the low brake fluid sensor to determine if it's faulty or if the BCM is giving a false report for some reason?

[loot]

Clear codes then put in first then handbrake off then read codes, no codes means you need to do a pcm update otherwise just ignore the handbrake dtc add it is only generated with the handbrake on.

[Ewan from Oz]

It's the low brake fluid DTC. It causes the brake warning light on the instrument cluster to stay on. The brake fluid is full to the max mark. The sender tests open-circuit which I presume is normal so I'm assuming it goes closed-circuit when fluid is low. In-any-case, I checked for DTC's when cable disconnected from sender and when cable contacts bridged and I get the same DTC in both conditions. It could be a short in the wiring to the sender but considering it was not present before I changed the BCM I'm assuming it's a programming issue with the BCM.

[Airthies]

It is possible it's a software config issue but only way to test is to get the asbuilt for your van loaded properly.
I had a similar fault that moved through two different BCMs as I was sucking file from old BCM and blowing it into it's replacement.
Not till I loaded the asbuilt from downloaded file rather than stored file did it resolve the issue.

It's got to be worth a try.
Try oggling or whootoobing forscan & asbuilt I've spotted a couple of vids butf mostly dealing with yankee cars but can't bee that different. Not got round to watching and taking notes yet

Sent from my anu5 using crapatalk

[Ewan from Oz]

I installed the AsBuilt file using Forscan which was necessary as the BCM still contained the settings from the original van from which it was sourced (during the reprogramming process I was able to read the VIN from that van and all it's various configurations). This was after I performed module initialisation so whatever initialisation does it doesn't include pulling a copy of this data from the back-up file in the instrument panel module.

Anyway, having successfully reprogrammed the BCM with the AsBuilt file nothing much changed that I could see. I'm still getting the low brake fluid DTC but as it's not illuminating the brake warning light as I expected it would, then I can just ignore it for now. Maybe the replacement BCM has some minor hardware issue that returns that DTC but whatever, I don't think it's worth worrying about.

Time will tell but it appears everything is fixed now. I checked the main earth connections but didn't replace any. Didn't find any faulty wiring at all. It appears it was just a random BCM failure which at first produced a host of unusual intermittent faults but settled down to just one permanent fault being the parking lights staying on all the time which would eventually run the battery down.

Through the advice of other members of this forum and using some trial and error of my own, the following is a summary of the BCM replacement process using Forscan:

Any BCM from a Mk7 can be substituted as long as it is of equal or higher specification to the one being replaced.

First install the BCM then follow this three step programming order:

1) Using Forscan with the extended license, program a minimum of two different keys (i.e. not an original key and a clone but two different keys). They don't have to be genuine keys as I used one genuine and one aftermarket spare obtained from local locksmith. If it's a secondhand BCM you're using, first delete the stored keys and then program your keys. This procedure known as "PATS" is found under the "Service Functions" tab on Forscan.

2) Once your keys have been programmed you can perform "module initialisation" also found within the "Service Functions" tab. Don't try and do module initialisation before programming your keys as the initialisation will fail. No harm is done if you do it in the wrong order it just won't perform initialisation until you have a key in the ignition that is recognised.

3) Lastly you need to program the replacement BCM with either the AsBuilt file (that you obtained from the Ford website using your VIN) or with the backup copy that is contained within the instrument panel module of your van. The procedure is found under the "Configuration and Programming" tab on Forscan. This step is necessary because if you don't perform it and you are using a secondhand BCM, the BCM will still contain the configuration information of the van from which it was sourced and some functions are likely to be different. For example, my van has a passenger side air bag but the van that was the donor for the replacement BCM didn't have one.

I had no trouble using Forscan to perform these procedures and they only take a matter of minutes for each step. Probably about five minutes for each step. It took me longer to familiarise myself with the Forscan software than it did to actually perform the programming. I'd never used Forscan prior to this experience.

[loot]

Did you try reading the codes with the handbrake off? (Need to clear them first)

[Ewan from Oz]

Did you try reading the codes with the handbrake off? (Need to clear them first)

I'm not sure. I'll check again. Do you mean with the handbrake on it might show a low brake fluid DTC?
I did notice that it was the handbrake that was making the brake warning light come on which I was mistaking for the low brake fluid warning light.

[loot]

Yes it is known that on an earlier software it would cause brake fluid low switch fault dtc come up, but it was a glitch and if you clear the codes with the handbrake lever off(safely) then you get no codes again.

This is until you try again with the handbrake on.

The remedy was to do a pcm update etc.
However, it's no problem anyway, just check this and hopefully it is what I've stated and you can relax.

[Ewan from Oz]

Yes it is known that on an earlier software it would cause brake fluid low switch fault dtc come up, but it was a glitch and if you clear the codes with the handbrake lever off(safely) then you get no codes again.

I checked and that is exactly what is happening.

[Ewan from Oz]

This is just an update to say things are going well with the van with no sign of any further problems associated with the BCM.

I do have this annoying fault which I've had for quite a while now with one of the door switches not working properly and giving a false indication that there is a door open when they are all closed. There is an indicator on the dash that illuminates when a door is open. The worst aspect to it is that you cannot lock the doors because the computer thinks one is still open. It used to be an intermittent fault but it seems permanent now. I never knew which door switch it was until I had to connect using Forscan to program the BCM and I noticed Forscan can see which door is "open". Anyway, it is the rear doors that show to be open even when they're closed.

Does anyone have any useful advice about how to fix the rear door switch? Can it be serviced/adjusted or should I just replace it? We live in a dusty environment so I wonder if dust in the switch could be the problem. Could it be the wiring in the hinge area and not the switch?