v8dave wrote:The broken wire looks like the glow plug feed.
Modern diesel engines will start without the glow plugs as they have adequate compression, BUT the ecu might do odd things as it will have sensed that the glow plug power is not normal.
The injector seals into the engine at two locations.
The pressure seal to contain combustion is at the tip, it's a copper coloured washer and new ones should always be fitted. My experience of aftermarket ones is that they are narrower than genuine ford ones, there is a significant cost difference. The surface in the cylinder head that the washer sits one must be clean, flat and accurately perpendicular to the injector axis to get proper sealing.
The secondary seal is the one you can see in the rocker cover, it keeps dirt out of the engine and the oil in. If oil is obviously leaking around them then it is likely that the pressure seal at the tip of the injector is not secure, this allows combustion gases to blow oil up against the oil seal and it leaks through because the seal can't cope with the pressure.
The injector leak back or leak off test is about leakage inside the injector.
Seems to me a failing pump should result in low fuel pressure.
If the suction control valve on the pump fails, it will fail open and you get too much fuel pressure.
Blue/white smoke at initial start could indicate several things,
- poor compression
- too much fuel
- cylinder(s) too cold
If the glow plugs are intact but not working then you'd get the too cold problem but they will warm up very quickly, like in 30 seconds at most.
The tips of the glow plugs can get burnt off, that would drop the compression a bit and might also give rise to a compression leak.
Once the engine is warm then blue/white smoke is engine oil and usually comes from the turbo, either compressor or turbine side. A slight haze is usually the warning that your about to produce a smoke screen big enough to hide the red army.
Once the engine is warmed up black smoke is from poor combustion due to soot caused by,
- too much fuel
- poor fuel distribution
- poor fuel droplet size
- poor compression
When I say too much fuel I mean for the amount of oxygen in the intake charge, that can be too low it the egr is recycling too much inert exhaust into the intake. This exhaust gas is actually used to suppress combustion cylinder temperatures and reduce the production of oxides of nitrogen. But it the engine management does not match the egr and injection correctly you can get incomplete combustion.
Poor fuel distribution would be caused by damaged injector nozzles
Poor fuel droplet size will be droplets that are too big, they would occur if the injector nozzles are too big or worn or if the fuel pressure is too low.
For your ecu calibration, the ford download site let me have BZ without giving any warnings about it being old - but that doesn't mean anything in my view.
Somebody with ids and an up to date database can do the check for a newer version.
Bluevanman! wrote:Don't suppose you have any more news On your van? Im going to Look at the same connection on mine at the weekend.
Bluevanman! wrote:Update on mine. So haven't used it for 2 weeks. Went to start it, noting just turns over. So went and grabbed the IDS laptop and VCM. Plugged it in. Only 2 DTC's. Bothe tue P1293,1294. So clears them. Restarted the engine. Fired up first turn. WTF.
I'm now thinking this is electrical. Again it will Only do this if left over a week. Will try it again next week and see what it dose.
Anyone go any suggestions?? Try checking all the earths? Worth a look I suppose.
Bluevanman! wrote:Been having the same weird thing happening to mine.
While its still warming up, Pop the clutch in the engine revs a little them sometimes hunts. Only dose it when its cold.
I replaced all the fuel Supply and return lines from the filter, leak off pipes everything. and "So Far" its been Ok.
But I have been using the van more than I usually do. IE 4 days was the longest it stood. Will see this weekend. Not driven it since last Sunday so will see if it will go next sat.
The Same codes you have seem to stop mine from going as well.
I have IDS so clearing them I noticed it will start and run as normal.
Hope i get to the bottom of this.
Geuss i will have to take the van out more often as well haha
mickmickmick wrote:Hi I have the same issue, starts then cuts out then refuses to start for 4 or 5 tries , then runs fine till the next morning, i changed furl filter but still same, obd reading says
P1 293:00-28 injector high side open - bank 1.
P1 294:00-28 injector high side open - bank 2.
anyone know what this could me thanks
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