break pad warning light, broken wire rear axle

[R0undyM0oney]

I got it sorted out plastic cover slides off the plug on the speedo part of the loom

[loot]

Yes

[tmac]

I'm having this issue on my MK7 front wheel drive.

I thought it was just a connector I found was broken on the rear left Axel. I fixed that and the light was off when the van was stationary. As soon as I drove the van the light would re-appear on the dash. I'm assuming this has something to do with the speedo??? At the risk of sounding like a total moron, where is this speedo connector that you are talking about bridging?

Thanks!!!

[tmac]

I did find this online, but again, where is this multiple located?

https://vantuner.co.uk/services/transit-power-tips/

"Brake Pad Warning Lamp Kill – Mk7 Transit

Brake pad warning light stuck on despite connections & pads being OK ? Locate the connector for the speedo binnacle & cut & connect Green Blue ( pad circuit) to Purple Black ( Earth), in the manner pictured."

[loot]

Pin 15 and 18 need to be bridged, that connector is behind the speedo on the left as you are looking at it

[tmac]

Pin 15 and 18 need to be bridged, that connector is behind the speedo on the left as you are looking at it

Mint! Thanks Loot, give it a crack tomorrow!

[tmac]

Seems to have done the trick!!! Thanks for the advice and direction!

49FD661D-6B4E-4568-B8B0-33E10008AAF1.jpg

For those that are as dim as I am, this is the connector in question, you have to depress the locking tab on the back of it then flick the retaining arm over to be able to pull it out of the back of the binnacle.

This is how I connected them:

IMG_2243.JPG

IMG_2244.JPG

[electricblu]

Hello

This has been plaguing me for a while now and I need to get it sorted.

Is bridging the connector out to erase the lamp the best way to resolve this?

I've repaired a break in the cable only for it to come back on again, checked and the cable tests fine?

[loot]

There are multiple places it can go including the connectors and also corrosion can get it. The wire is a single loop through all the sensors which returns to the speedo, when the link is cut it makes the speedo see open circuit and it turns on the lamp. Either systematically go through the wires to fix it or bridge the connector at the speedo, doing this basically shortens the loop to nothing and so it can't see any break.

[electricblu]

I think I'll short out the cable at the speedo head!

I change the wheels over for winter tyres/summer tyres so chance to inspect pad thickness visually twice a year at least, don't need the light anyway

[electricblu]

Just done this and the light has gone out & stayed out

[Azer van man]

It’ll more than likely be in the loom that runs from rear to front,a good source told me the looms fail in behind the diesel tank.
Replacement loom about £45 from dealers.
My lights been on for 12 months at least.

[Gazolzwurf]

Big thanks to loot for the technical info on this and also to tmac for the very helpful pics. Thank you.

Stumbled across this thread from the same vantuner piece posted earlier so for anybody else looking to get rid of the annoying brake light here are a couple more pointers.

Lift the storage lid above the speedo and remove the two hinge screws to lift the lid away.
Remove the two screws on the storage lid latch and slip something under the sides of the storage tray to pop off the four captive spring clips, lift out storage tray.
Remove the three screws holding the speedo cowl in place and pop off the two captive spring clips, one at each side of the steering column, to lift away the cowl.
Remove four screws holding the speedo etc in place.
Put your hand down the back of the speedo and feed the small length of cable loom through the opening to get the speedo out a little farther to access the connector.
Push in and hold the stop while you slide the harness latch over to release the connector.
Feed the connector back through the opening and slide the multi pin block out of the connector with a small terminal driver.
Remove a portion of the loom wrapping to expose the wires, splice into the cables from pins 15 and 18 and solder joint pin 15 to the ground as detailed earlier in this thread. Obviously making sure to have the ground connection continuing through.
If you've got this far you'll know how to put it all back together.

Thanks again guys and gals, that light has been doing me nut in for ages

[loot]

Result

[bustersdad]

Does anyone know if there’s a more convenient location to access the wire that requires grounding? I assume you could put a terminal on the end and simply Earth it to the body/chassis?